by
QueenSimplyBe
@ 16/10/2007 - 17:36:31
For many years, it seemed that thin was always in if you wanted to be anywhere near fashionable. Now we have wonderful PROPER fashion designers like Anna Scholz, though, we can rest assured that we at least have one person fighting for the notion that big girls love to look good too.
Anna Scholz was, like many 13-year-old girls, including me, obsessed with fashion when growing up in the style-obsessed 80s. . But Anna had a bit of a problem - she was just over six feet tall and a size 16. There's no embarassing ra-ra skirt photos in Anna's family collection - some may say that's more of a bonus than a problem...
Although she wasn't happy with her lot, fashion wise.
"My mum used to drag me round the shops and all we could find [that fit] were these old ladies' clothes, or menswear," she says now. "So I started sewing."
Nearly 25 years on, after a stint as a plus-size model, Scholz is one of the world's only plus-size designers at the top end of the market. She uses Vogue models for her publicity shots, and her pieces - some priced at several hundred pounds - are sold in Harrods and Selfridges. Her gorgeous website screams expensive, flattering taste...no voluminous tents in sight.
The only difference between her and her design contemporaries is that while their sizes tend to stop at 14, her clothes go all the way up to size 28.
Scholz, now a size 26 herself, is angry that her world - the fashion world - still has won't tolerate models or clothes above a size 14.
"You can't read an interview in a magazine now without a mention of what the celebrity ate for lunch - I really don't want to know! Why do we need to point it out whenever somebody eats something? Are we now already presuming that she has an eating disorder?"
Scholz has dressed a number of larger-than-average celebrities, including Macy Gray, Dawn French, Roseanne Barr, Alison Moyet and Queen Latifah, yet the transition has yet to be made on to the catwalk at British, Continental or American fashion week shows. With rare exceptions such as Sophie Dahl (who, when she was discovered, was presented as a statuesque and gorgeous size 16, but has since shrunk down to a size 8), and American Crystal Renn - a size 14 who was until recently the face of Scholz's collection and has now signed up to be the new face of high street chain Evans - most designers tend to make no secret of the fact that they do not enjoy dressing larger women.
"People are really quite arrogant ... they have all these misconceptions that bigger women don't care about their
appearance and have let themselves go, therefore they're not going to spend money on clothes," says Scholz accusingly. "It's really harsh. Not everyone in the industry thinks like that, but lots of designers do."
During her career as a plus-size model, she found that having to model the pitiful offerings of plus-size clothing for women led to some pretty horrific crimes of fashion.
Not surprisingly, she gave up on modelling and in enrolled at the Central St Martins College of Art and Design in London to study fashion design, tutored alongside future industry stars Giles Deacon, Julien Macdonald and Tristan Webber. The snooty tutors were not particularly interested in my plus sizes, and Anna had to make her own bigger blocks for patterns, as the other blocks at college were a size 10.
Anna's determined attitude paid off. Her end-of-year fashion show, the only plus-size one to be staged that year, received a standing ovation. After graduation she opened a boutique in west London's trendy Portobello Road, which she ran with two fellow fashion graduates, and was able to put on a few trade shows with the help of a grant from the Prince's Trust. Her big break came when the American plus-size chain store Lane Bryant placed a huge order. Even so, Britain's top fashion buyers still seemed to look down thewir perfectly-formed noses at her.
Scholz's collections are now stocked in Selfridges and Harrods alongside the likes of Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Alexander McQueen. One of this season's Scholz pieces, a gold-coloured swing coat, is one of Harrods' top 20 best-selling womenswear items.
Julien Macdonald, the sequin-loving young Welsh designer beloved of red-carpet regulars attacked the culture of skinny during London Fashion Week, saying that icons of thin such as Kate Moss looked like "your 12-year-old daughter dressed up".
Macdonald is also one of those high-end designers who have opted to produce high street ranges: for several years he has made an affordable seasonal diffusion line for Designers At Debenhams, which goes up to a size 20.
Scholz is hoping that things will improve for plus size fashionistas, although she's realistic
"I don't know if we'll ever see someone like Vogue, Marie Claire or Elle doing a shoot with bigger models without making a big hoo-ha about it." she says.
Despite oozing confidence about her size, Scholz admits to having the occasional down day herself when it comes to looking and feeling good.
"I don't think any woman is ever happy with her size," she points out. "One day you'll feel great and then you have another when you feel horrible and fat. But I've never been slim and I've always been quite happy being curvy and Amazonian. Like most people, though, if my clothes fit me loosely I'm much happier than if they're a bit tight."
She's pleased with what she's achieved in the plus-size market so far, but thinks more can be done. "I just want people to accept diversity more," she says. "And that should be the same with different ages and races. That's what the world is like, after all. We should be portraying it as it is a little more often."
Amen to that!